Beckmans x NK's French Couture Atelier
Sept. 17, 2021
The couture of the future is explored by Fashion students at Beckmans College of Design in the pop-up exhibition Beckmans x NK's French Couture Atelier at the Nordiska Museum.
Twelve visionary concepts and creations
The exhibition opens at the same time as “The Paris of the North", a showcase about the French Couture Atelier at the NK department store in Stockholm 1902–1966, and presents twelve visionary concepts and creations where creative design and traditional craftsmanship meet the challenges of sustainability and renewal of materia.
– NK's French Couture Atelier is an important and unique part of Swedish fashion history and a goldmine for future generations of creators. With this treasure as a source of inspiration, the students at Beckmans have set visions of what couture could be at a future fashion house, such as a NK's French Couture Atelier. Through advanced design and craft techniques, they have created their personal interpretations of couture, says Pär Engsheden, designer and Program Director for Fashion at Beckmans.
In the couture studios of the future, the presence of the hand is clear and the 3D printer is a matter of course. The exhibition "Paris of the North" shows the source of the inspiration: original creations from the 20th century's legendary custom studio at the French Couture Atelier at NK.
Concept and participating Fashion students
A Future Studio
Alice Svensson Brostedt
“In my future studio, we work with slow fashion and basically build all the material from scratch. My goal is that the garments can be used over time and still be aesthetically relevant and artistically interesting.
Material: Silk organza, sheep wool, mohair and cotton.
Crafts/technique: Hand-woven fabric on counter march loom, manipulation and pearl embroidery.
The Mourning After
"In my creation, I have shaped the aesthetics of the underworld; dirt, smog and the consequent pallor of vitamin D. In the aesthetics of the underworld with doom in the making, when nature is devastated and light therapy takes place in tablet form, evolution may change our ability to perceive light.
As part of my research work on the color choice of my creation, the future will show whether my chromatic color scale will be perceived as "enlightening" or "darkening". In the same way, I relate to the future role of couture, as either enlightening or darkening - Only the mo (u) rning after can tell." Material: Recycled silk satin. Accessory of recycled pieces of silver fox and calf skin.
Crafts/technique: Shibori, draping according to the zero waste-method.
Uzay (space in Turkish)
“What would couture look like if it were created on another planet with a new and more advanced technology? Are traditional textiles used or do we dress the body in hologram or gas that only the eye can see but does not exist? ”
Material: Cotton and glass beads. Shoes and handbag of PLA, cotton and natural gemstones.
Crafts/technique: Knitting, draping, pearl embroidery, and 3D-printer.
Desirée Bjurinder Fritzon
"What is not visible is no longer relevant. In connection with the pandemic, we have learned to meet digitally - and that we only need to dress up the part of the body that the camera shows. From the waist up. ”
Material: Wool, silk satin.
Crafts/technique: Folded, draped, padded skirt
Hilda Landström Ferm
"What does a future body look like? How does it move? Does it move at all, or is it sedentary and allows robots to perform the movement? My vision is a future craft studio that designs garment parts according to the constantly upgraded and modular body. ”
Material: Cashmere, silk.
Crafts/technique: sculpted in textile. Fabric draped and shaped around sculpture.
“My vision of a future studio is about sustainability and transformation and is based on pleating and technology. The customer orders a creation and will later on be able to return to have their garment re-pleated in a completely new shape. ”
Material: silk, recycled polyester. 3D accessory in of plypropen.
Crafts/technique: Pleated, draped and inspired by the zero waste method. 3D printer.
A future studio
"My vision for a future studio is a place where the possibilities are endless. A place where I shape concepts from scratch for each unique customer. My signature is a tight base with draped volumes, making my customer the center of any room. A couture look for those who want to make an impression in the present as well as in the future."
Material: Wool, dupion silk. 3D accessory of polypropen and Swarovski stones.
Crafts/technique: Draping, decoration with Swarovski stones, 3D printer.
One Piece Can Fit All
"I have researched and been inspired by zero waste and 'one piece can fit all'. My vision is to give fashion a longer life by transforming garments with draping. A piece of fabric can be worn several times and the transformation itself creates a close relationship between creator and customer. ”
Material: silk organza, silk taffeta. 3D-earings: PLA-plastic, stones, gems and glass.
Crafts/technique: Draping (CLO 3D-patterb), inspired by the zero-waste method, 3D printer.
Big Black Sheep
“To me, couture is something personal. There is only one copy of it and it is defined by a craft - something unique, similar to a person's personality. As a homage to the "black sheep" within us, I have designed my creation in the, according to me, powerful color black.
Material: silk taffeta, pearls.
Crafts/technique: Draped with padded shapes, pearl embroidery.
Everything has already been done
“Couture is both traditional and innovative. I am fascinated by historical garments and my future vision of couture is to interpret classic attributes. "Everything has already been done" is a phrase that is often used. I do not reinvent the wheel, but create something new from what already exists through digital and material innovation. ”
Material: Wool. Parchment headdress.
Crafts/technique: Smocked, draped, constructed sculptural elements.
Inner journey of discovery
“My vision as a fashion designer is based on the individual, the nudity that arises without belonging. To create a fashion that inspires the search for a true self, the search for the playful childlike mind. Innovative and revolutionary ideas are often generated by play - by seeing the world with an innocent eye. ”
Material: Stretch patent leather.
Crafts/technique: Cuts with sewn-in ribbons.
“My vision is a new creative landscape made up by my future studio along with many other studios. The democratization of technology enables more fashion designers to realize their ideas and the range of couture is diversified and made more accessible. ”
Material: silk taffeta, organza.
Crafts/technique: draping, laces for variation of the shape of the garment.